Lee’s Lakeside Ruled Lake Eola for 20 Years, and Orlando Still Hasn’t Gotten Over It

Lee's Lakeside ruled downtown Orlando dining at Lake Eola for 20 years. The story of Lee Rose, the flaming desserts, and what took over the space.
Lee's Lakeside
Lee's Lakeside view overlooking Lake Eola. Source: Orlando Memory

Somewhere in this town there is a shoebox with a photo of two teenagers in rented formalwear, squinting into the sun, a fountain over their shoulders. Lee's Lakeside was that kind of place.

It sat at 431 East Central Boulevard, at Osceola Avenue, on the ground floor of a building shoved right up against Lake Eola Park, close enough the water did most of the heavy lifting before anybody opened a menu.

For about 20 years this was the room where Central Floridians got engaged, closed deals, survived their in-laws and sent kids off to prom.

Then it closed, and the address has been auditioning replacements ever since.

The Building Behind Lee's Lakeside Had a Whole Life First

Lee Rose did not conjure this place out of nothing. The address opened in the early 1950s as an apartment building called Eola Plaza, then got a promotion and became the Cherry Plaza Hotel, a name longtime residents still drop into conversation without feeling any need to explain it.

Some version of a restaurant worked that lakefront corner for roughly 50 years before Lee's Lakeside got the keys. The strangest tenant turned up in the 1970s: a short-lived outpost of the Columbia Restaurant, the oldest restaurant chain in Florida. It did not last. A local church objected to the liquor sales, and that was the end of that. The lesson stuck anyway. The location worked even when the concept did not.

Lethia “Lee” Rose Had Already Put in the Miles

The name on the sign belonged to Lethia Rose, called Lee by absolutely everybody, and she had been at this a long time before she got to Lake Eola. Rose landed in Orlando in 1966 and, with her second husband, bought a Colonial Drive restaurant called Roger's. You already know the building. It is Barney's Steak & Seafood now.

That partnership ended, so she went solo. In 1974 she opened Lee's Country Pub inside the Colonial Bowling Lanes, which sounds like a setup until you learn it became a genuine lunch fixture for downtown business people. She added restaurants in Mount Dora and up in Maggie Valley, North Carolina, then sold them off. Four decades in the Central Florida restaurant business. Five marriages. Whatever else Lee Rose was, she was not somebody who sat still.

She Bought a Failing Restaurant and Pointed It at the Water

By the 1980s the restaurant inside the former Cherry Plaza was limping. Rose bought it, renamed it Lee's Lakeside, and then made the call that mattered more than anything that ever came out of that kitchen: she redesigned the dining room so the panoramic, unobstructed view of Lake Eola and the rising downtown skyline belonged to the entire room instead of the four lucky tables by the glass.

Plenty of Orlando restaurants have had a water view. Lee's Lakeside was engineered to sell one. The timing turned out to be a gift, too. The skyline kept filling in through the 1980s and 1990s, which meant the view improved a little every year while the restaurant did absolutely nothing but stay exactly where it was and take the credit.

What You Actually Ordered at Lee's Lakeside

The kitchen picked a lane somewhere in the classic era and never once signaled to change it, which was the whole point. Servers worked tableside. Desserts were set on fire in front of you rather than quietly out back, a bit of theater a whole generation of Orlando kids remembers far better than whatever the entree was.

The greatest hits:

  • Piña Colada Muffins, which showed up before the meal and have outlived the restaurant in local memory by roughly two decades
  • Red Snapper Amandine, the safe order that somehow never managed to be the boring one
  • Tournedos Lakeside, the house steak and the reason a great many anniversaries got booked here
  • Liver and onions, which Rose kept on the menu purely because customers revolted every single time she considered cutting it

That last one tells you exactly how the place operated. Menu changes were not announced, they were negotiated. Servers stayed long enough to remember which anniversary belonged to which couple and what they ordered the year before, which is not a feature anybody can buy and install.

Even the Governor Waited His Turn

Florida Governor Lawton Chiles was a regular, showing up for lunches with Rose that were, by all accounts, about nothing in particular. Her son explained the appeal without much ceremony: his mother was not political and had no agenda. And when the dining room was full, the governor waited like everybody else holding a pager. Former Orange County Chairman Linda Chapin credited Rose with having “made it fashionable to come downtown for a meal,” which, in a metro area that had spent decades pointing everyone southwest, counts as an achievement.

That evenhandedness became the reputation. A TV personality, a pro athlete, a sitting governor and two 17-year-olds on prom night all got the same treatment, and the staff understood that part was non-negotiable.

One Restaurant Was Not Enough for Her

Rose kept building. The summer of 2001 brought the Lake Eola Yacht Club, an all-you-can-eat lobster and seafood buffet unusual enough that it pulled in diners from outside Florida entirely. She also opened a tavern directly beneath Lee's Lakeside, which gave downtown a reason to park once and stay for two.

Take a second with that lobster buffet. This was downtown Orlando in 2001, a market not exactly overrun with all-you-can-eat crustaceans, and it worked well enough to bring people in from other countries. Rose had a knack for reading what her corner of the city was missing, then building it before anybody else noticed the gap.

Remember, Downtown Orlando Was a Different Animal

A little context is worth it here, because downtown in the 1980s and 1990s emptied out at five o’clock sharp. Residential density was thin. The stretch of Orange Avenue that now goes sideways on a Saturday night was a considerably quieter proposition, and most of the region’s dining gravity had already been pulled toward International Drive and the tourist corridor.

So a serious white-tablecloth room holding down the northeast corner of the park was doing more than plating snapper. It gave Central Floridians a reason to aim the car at the middle of the city, and it gave the neighborhood a landmark that was not a government building. The current downtown lineup of restaurants and rooftop bars is standing on ground that places like Lee's Lakeside kept warm.

In 1993, the Park Came to Lee's Lakeside

One of the bigger turning points had nothing to do with food at all. In 1993 the City of Orlando closed East Washington Street, the road that had run between the restaurant and the water. That single move tucked both the restaurant and the neighboring Post Parkside Apartments inside the boundaries of Lake Eola Park and opened the door for the adjacent International Food Court.

For diners, the last strip of asphalt between the table and the lake simply disappeared. For the park, it added the block that turned the northeast corner into one continuous public space instead of a lawn with a road running through it. Anybody who has walked the mile loop around the water owes that decision a quiet thank-you for the stretch where the path opens up rather than squeezing past traffic.

January 2003, and Then the Hard Part

Lee Rose died in January 2003 after an extended illness. The restaurant tried to keep going without the woman whose name was on the door and whose face was in the dining room most nights. It made it roughly three difficult years before Lee's Lakeside closed for good in 2005.

Restaurants outlive their founders all the time. This one was built almost entirely on one woman’s instincts about how to treat people walking through a door, and that does not transfer in a sale.

Everybody Who Tried to Follow Lee's Lakeside

The space did not sit dark for long. It just never found anyone who could hold it. Three concepts took a swing at the best view in downtown Orlando:

  • Shortly after 2006. Robin Stotter, a former Wolfgang Puck apprentice, bought the space with plans for a relaunch built around imaginative cuisine.
  • 2009. Pesca arrived, courtesy of Manny Tato, who also ran Rose’s former Lake Eola Yacht Club, later Spice Modern. It opened, it waited for a crowd that never showed, and it closed.
  • 2013. World of Beer Downtown moved into the remodeled space with the same sightline over the lake and the fountain that made the address worth having in the first place.

Three swings, and none of them connected the way Lee's Lakeside had. The view, notably, was never the problem.

Why Lee's Lakeside Still Comes Up at Orlando Dinner Tables

Stand on that corner of the park today and the frame is nearly identical. The Centennial Fountain, officially the Linton E. Allen Memorial Fountain, still anchors the water. The skyline behind it has gotten considerably taller. The vantage point remains one of the most photographed in the city, which is precisely what Rose spotted in the 1980s when she tore up a floor plan to chase it.

What has not been replaced is the job the restaurant actually did. Lee's Lakeside was where downtown Orlando went to mark things, back when downtown Orlando was still making its case. Newer restaurants have better coffee, sharper rooms and a great deal more competition. Very few of them have a governor content to wait for a table, or a dish nobody could delete without triggering a customer uprising.

For locals who were there, the name works as shorthand for a whole era. Say Lee's Lakeside at a dinner table in College Park and somebody will produce a story about a proposal, a graduation, or a flaming dessert that got livelier than the server had planned.

For everyone who showed up after 2005, it explains why so many longtime residents look at one unremarkable lakefront corner with more feeling than an old restaurant space seems to warrant. The building is still standing. The view is still spectacular. The room, in the way that counted, is gone.

🔥 If you're fascinated by Orlando history like I am, well, there's plenty more where this came from, right here.

Sources:

https://orlandoretro.com/2013/08/08/the-intriguing-history-of-the-cherry-plaza-hotel-part-1/
https://orlandomemory.org/places/favorite-restaurants/
https://scottjosephorlando.com/lee-rose/
https://stars.library.ucf.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1023&context=lib-rosen-exhibits
https://www.floridaneighborhoodrealty.com/blog/lake-eola-park/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Eola_Park
https://orlandoretro.com/2013/08/31/one-last-stop-at-the-cherry-plaza-hotel/
https://scottjosephorlando.com/world-of-beer-downtown/
https://www.orlando.gov/Parks-the-Environment/Directory/Lake-Eola-Park
https://retrolando.com/blogs/news/remembering-lees-lakeside-restaurant-a-downtown-orlando-gem

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